Breaking down and the art of Cinders rags

Using stitching, dyes and cheese graters to create effective broken down costumes for stage.

Creating convincing rags for stage is an art. By thinking a little creatively and utilizing snippets of trim, fragments of fabric and a tea bag or two, breaking down a costume that will also last the run of a show and stand multiple washes can be satisfying.

Stage costumes need to be stable; the performer needs to be comfortable wearing them, they need to survive multiple washes and they need to look the same for every performance. This means that when breaking a costume down the use of the final costume needs to be considered. Any dyes used need to be ‘fast’ to survive washes, any stitches of distressing of the fabric needs to be done in such a way that it, too will survive the run of a show.

The new Peasant Girl sewing pattern from Tangled Stitch is inspired by Cinders rags dress and many of the techniques described here can be used to create that dress. In this article I will explain how to use Tea bags, patching, stitches and breaking down techniques to create unique fabrics and texture’ for your Costumes.

Tea Dying

Using tea as a dye is an easy, inexpensive, and quick way to bring texture to a costume. Tea provides a rich, earthy colour and different brands and blends of tea can be used to provide different shades. Tea is rich in tannins which bond well with natural fibers. Cottons, cotton mixes, silks and linens for example work best with tea dying, however; samples can be made for any fabrics to check.

Any fabric chosen should be pre-washed, new fabrics can have a glaze on them that will resist dyes. Patch dying works well to provide a dirty, used and broken-down effect. This can be managed in two ways. Firstly, make a strong cup or small bowl of tea. Use several tea bags to ensure it is strong. Leave to steep for a few minutes then either dip a sponge into the tea, then use this to dap onto the fabric. As you apply the tea, try to think about where wear points may be, along the hem, or neckline or cuff for example. This will result in a lighter shade of tea dyed fabric. Alternatively, simply remove one of the tea bags from the pot of tea, squeeze lightly to remove a little of the water, then use this to dab directly onto the fabric. This gives a much darker, richer shade of tea. Using the two techniques together can build up textures on the fabric.

Example shown is of multiple handmade fabric envelopes. Tea has been applied in layers to build up ‘dirt’ as if they have been dropped in a muddy puddle.

Using tea to dye delicate cotton lace and trims is a perfect way to increase the ragged look of a Cinders, a weathered Scarecrow or cravat of a dirty Pirate. Use also to enhance ‘worn’ areas around patches and cuffs and collars.

Once finished, leave the fabric, or costume pieces, to dry then iron well with a hot iron. Tea is a natural stain so no fixing agent is needed, however; vigorous washing over time may cause the effect to fade. Tea shows up best on paler fabrics.

Patches